誰說臺東沒有污染？臺東污染十分嚴重。但是屬于在臺灣不當公害的污染：噪音污染。

臺東人似乎年輕時買機車，騎終生。騎久了，滅音器早已報銷，而騎士也早已重聽，時速十五慢慢騎，留下藍煙與噪音。鯉魚山漂亮，設備齊全，公園入口卡拉ok震動全山，無處可逃避孝子哭墓般的狂吼鬼叫，停留十分鐘以上，保證內耳膜受傷；聽了二十分鐘以上，IQ急速下降。(即使他們能唱的像音樂的話，為何無辜遊客強迫聽？) 噪音創傷生態；不利人類健康；常聽流行歌曲使頭腦變笨：均早已為科學定論。

臺東市其它噪音不詳談；連天上也不安寧！空軍戰鬥機在市區練習低空飛行，動地裂耳，甚至偶而還可以蓋過鯉魚山卡拉OK的噪音！被保護的感覺很好，可是生活品質難提升。很可惜。

聽說臺東有個問題，即人口老化：年輕人越來越少。一般歸咎于外流，說年輕人往外發展。

但依我的觀察，另一個因素很重要。臺東大學斜對面是臺東高中，處于臺東主要的馬路，中華路。竟然沒有人行道，學生只好走在馬路上。

難怪我覺得臺東大學校園冷清清，沒甚麼人~~~

a delightful sign in Taitung

I think the signmaker was not familiar with 'n.

On the seashore at Taitung lies a beautiful log.

I dreamed of somehow getting it back to Wulai to carve, but in Taiwan, driftwood is closely protected. The law says that driftwood drifts wherever it pleases until it breaks down and returns to the ecosystem. Not everybody agrees. Some people (and I am not pointing my finger at anybody in particular, Mr Yang) specialize in lightning raids on beaches. Driftwood is snatched onto trucks and sped away to waiting woodcarvers (notice the passive voice: no subject, no names).

Balahu took us to 知本 a Puyuma aborigine village a dozen kilometers down the coast to visit 一命 Iming, a woodcarver who produces magnificent artwork, furniture, and knife scabbards. Because Taiwan’s climate is so humid, leather rots, so Aborigines make scabbards out of wood. My around-the-house 金門砲彈殼刀 Quemoy-bombardment-artillery-shell knife broke when it slipped loose and fell three storeys and landed on a rock while I was climbing some scaffolding, so I need a new everyday knife, and wondered if Iming could make me one. He designs blades which a blacksmith forges, and Iming completes the handle and scabbard.

While we were discussing details, I mentioned that beautiful piece of driftwood. Iming was interested. I described as best I could where I saw it, and how big it was. I was a bit surprised, but not astonished, when Iming then described the log in detail. Hmmmm….

好像是蘇府千歲爺出巡吧。I was walking on a walkway parallel to the street a Daoist religious procession was passing on. I shot the first video through a building that is being rebuilt. You can see how far away I was. When the truck with the drums passed, the ground under my feet was shaking.

Another group in the procession had the largest drum I have seen in my life.

You can't see from this video, but the costumed marchers are heavily tattooed: in Taiwan, a sure sign of gang membership.

On the seashore in Taitung stands a longhouse (明堂，男人聚會所) built by the Yamen 雅美 tribe from 蘭嶼 Orchid Island out at sea.

A group of women from the Amis 阿美 tribe was dancing there. The dance was nice, but the music was atrocious. ~~ they were shooting an MTV film for karaoke. I bet you never knew there were MTV films in Amis, did you? You can learn so much by reading this blog!

A truck drove by, and all the men in it started singing along with the music at the top of their lungs. Apparently they were from the same tribe.

鯉魚山掘起于臺東市。風景憂美，環視臺東、中央山脈、太平洋，山上設施完善，有各種樹木鳥蟲的詳細說明。勸君，若赴臺東，千萬別去鯉魚山！

甚麼道理呢？卡拉OK。未進鯉魚山公園，我已聽到裂耳不饒人的卡拉ok。就在入公園幾步的地方有卡拉ok，音量放到最大聲。進了公園，沒有一個角落可以逃過。本來我還想看看忠烈祠、龍鳳佛堂、石棺，可是沒辦法忍受噪音污染的攻擊，只好抱頭鼠竄、落荒而逃。

聽臺東的朋友說，他們不敢到鯉魚山，因為實在太吵。空有那麼好的風景，白建那麼好的遊樂設施。

我不懂。一方面，禮節已經宣佈死亡了嗎？為甚麼唱歌的人一定要麥克風、一定要把音量放那麼大聲，強迫所有人屈服于他們的噪音污染下？另一方面，公園是公家的地，一小群人為甚麼可以霸佔，讓別人都不敢去？更何況，卡拉ok攤是私人營利事業，憑甚麼在公家的地如此肆虐？

A 360 degree view of Taitung city, on the Southeastern coast of Taiwan, taken from Carp Mountain. That's the Pacific you sea, and if you look carefully, you can see Green Island, the former prison colony, and off in the distance, Orchid Island.

The mountain you see in the distance in the final moments is Dulan, where Balahu and Rabbit run their coffee shop.

Don't go to Carp Mountain! The karaoke is deadly!!

Chao went to a conference at 臺東大學 Taitung U on the Southeast coast. I hadn't been down there for decades, so this was a great chance to go, especially since Balahu and Rabbit have been inviting us to visit their coffee shop, 月光小棧 Moonlight Coffeshop in Dulan東河鄉都蘭村, just north of the city. The scenery is so beautiful that you have to see it to believe it… different from our beautiful scenery in Wulai (of course I can't say somebody has beautiful scenery without putting in a word for Wulai!!).

They also run the 女妖在說畫藝廊 The Other Woman Gallery, which specializes in works by Aborigine artists, especially women. They now have an exhibit by Ibing from the Bunung布農 tribe, of pit fired pottery. If you have the good fortune to find yourself in southeastern Taiwan, be sure to stop by to admire the view of the ocean, the bamboo, the art, the trees and flowers, the coffee, and everything else. But you'll probably want to phone ahead for directions: 089-530012. Take your GPS.

These days, you see a lot of slogans and hear a lot of talk about changing the world, how you can transform the world. These are common, I might add, in English language slogans and talk. The realization that yes, we can change the world, the world can be improved, is highly laudable. But what interests me is the background. The English culture is rooted strongly in the Judeo-Christian tradition that god created the world and the world is immutable. Remember what trouble Darwin got into with the idea that species change? Charles Lyell's observations that the earth changes were so revolutionary that almost a century later when Alfred Wegener proposed that continents drift and the earth changes, academia pounced and mercilessly trounced him.

But in the East, change is hardly news. Buddhism teaches us 緣起性空 how conditions are in flux. 無常, impermanence, is a central idea of Chinese thought, especially evidenced in the Confucian 易 I Ching, Book of Change. In Chinese thought, it would be very peculiar indeed if you did not change the world. The change of the world is a changeless fact:易者不易也。Each of us is part of the world. Every act, every thought, everything we do changes the world as the world changes.

Think on that. It's a heavy responsibility and a great challenge. 任重道遠。勉之！

In The Americans, J C Furnas recounts that in 1799, Elizabeth Drinker, the wife of a prominent Philadelphia Quaker, had a shower bath installed for therapeutic use. She tried it out and complimented herself in her diary: "I bore it better than I expected." It was the first bath she had had in 28 years.

No misprint: twenty eight years without a bath. Yuck!!

昨天的post提到，臺灣的創意為何衰退不著？

很複雜，可是我想出兩種理由：拋磚引玉，我希望大家重視此題、多討論、設法改善。

其一、政治上爭權奪利，耗掉了民眾太多精神。好了，我們的確「換人作作看」，對臺灣比較好嗎？誰得利？

其二、現在臺北很難尋求一靜處（臺灣其它地方，我不清楚，不敢說）。到哪裡，逃不過吵雜的音樂、電視、大聲公、車聲、廣播，不得安寧。想想，等捷運的時間很少超過六分鐘，可是月台上電視高掛，似乎臺北人五分鐘沒電視就會死。即使不站在電視下，很難逃避噪音污染。公車上也有電視。買果汁，櫃檯旁也有電視，怕你等一分鐘會無聊。沒電視的話，有耳機、手機。手機！打電話約朋友去KTV吧！怎樣也不敢讓心靜下來，因為萬一靜下，也許會「思攷」，而思攷好像是現代臺北人最怕的事。

心一直浮動，都不靜一靜，怎可能有創意？

蘇格蘭四十七歲女歌手Susan Boyle一夜成名，連我這個不睬流行的孤癖野人也知。

等著瞧，一個月之內，臺灣會出現一位其貌不揚、歌聲美妙的未聞名女歌者，迷倒聽眾，一鳴驚人，一砲而紅。

現在臺灣跟在英語系國家的流行後面，再不然也看看日本韓國來決定我們要如何活。昔日臺灣的創意到哪裏去了？

"Golf is the stupidest game ever invented," Del said.

"That's true," Shrake said, pointing the putter at Del. "But you're not qualified to say it. You have to play it for twenty years before you can fully appreciate how exquisitely stupid it is."

~John Sandford, Phantom Prey

Today at noon, two qniq qalux (紅嘴黑鵯, black bulbul, Hypsipetes madagascariensis) flew together into a 欒 (golden rain tree, Koelreuteria henryi) tree out front, perched together in identical poses, and froze. I studied them with binoculars: each appeared to have a large spider in its mouth, and I think they were the same kind of spider. The bulbuls stayed there, practically motionless, for almost exactly one hour. Then suddenly they flew away together.

I have no idea what that was all about.

臺北小市民生活歷史綴筆，路邊攤篇
本blog已前提過，如果沒有地攤，臺灣就不像臺灣(:::click here:::)。可是有時即使找到素食路邊攤，覺得擁擠、吵雜、不舒服。想一想，問題不在攤，問題在路邊，而是路邊變了。

這樣講：我一個朋友在紹興南街、青島東路附近長大。她說，民國五十年代，青島東路、紹興南街路口算是重要的交通中心，因為那兒有很大的三輪車站。而且她說，那裡算很熱鬧，很繁忙，每天早上可以看到兩三部汽車經過！哇，好不熱鬧呀！

三輪車在五十年代末禁止進入臺北市。到六十年初，鄉下地方還有，但也不常見。民國四十年代，臺灣人口七百萬，現在三倍多；由于經濟成長，汽車不止四十年代的三倍。

所以我認為，路邊攤的問題是，現在臺灣的路邊變了。擁擠、吵雜，到處都是電視、喇叭、大聲公，整個路邊品質大降，所以在路邊吃，就是沒有以前的輕鬆、舒服。

photo, 民國六十一年,新生南路一段 Taipei, 1972

有沒有甚麼新鮮事一直想作作看，卻一直耽擱著不碰？今天是好日子，應當要去作。為甚麼？因為今天四月十四日，四一四，試一試！

英文與中文表達法迥然不同。把中文一個字譯成英文一個字，然後整理成文法完美的句子，還不一定是英文。這兩種語言表達法很不一樣，問題百出。

從前與一位學生練習會話。我問，How long have you been married?
他： I have been married for ten years.
我： How old is your son?
他： My son is eleven years old.
停！我跟他說，講英文不能講虛歲！孩子剛好年尾生，不到三個月就算兩歲~~不行，人家會誤會，先上車後補票。好了，繼續：
我： Okay, let's try again. How long have you been married?
他： I have been married for ten years.
我： Good. Where did you get married?
他： I got married in a hotel.
停！這，這，人家一定會誤會！西方人也許在飯店舉行reception(酒席)，可是結婚典禮不在飯店舉行。後來我教他說，I got married in a public ceremony比較安全。

Wouldn't you know it! This morning, a bird ~ I suspect a 紅嘴黑鵯 bulbul ~ was imitating a car alarm: whoop whoop whoop squawk squawk! It did this without break for ten minutes. I thought, Hey, I ought to record this and post it on my blog! So as soon as I picked up my camera, the bird stopped. I put down my camera and it started again. I snuck out on the balcony to try again, closer, and the bird flew away. A few minutes later I heard whoop whoop whoop squawk squawk! from the bamboo slope, but it was too far away to record.

Which is why you are not listening to a great recording of a bulbul imitating a car alarm. You'll just have to take my word for it. But then, I'm sure you've heard car alarms anyway. Just not with feathers, perched high in a treetop.

明‧蓮池大師：世人以病為苦，而先德云，「病者眾生之良藥。」夫藥與病反，奈何以病為藥？蓋有形之身，不能無病，此理勢所必然。而無病之時，嬉怡放逸，誰覺之者？唯病苦逼身，始知四大非實，人命無常，則悔悟之一機，而修進之一助也。予出家至今，大病垂死者三，而每病發悔悟、增修進，由是良藥之語，其真至言哉。

Interesting: in recent months I've heard a lot of people speaking Cantonese around Taipei, a lot more than usual. Apparently political unrest in Thailand has scared off Hong Kong tourists, so they come here instead.

Good choice, if you ask me. Where can you find such good food, nice people, and beautiful scenery as in Taiwan? You can't beat Taipei’s subway. You want superior tea, pottery, woodwork, then visit Taiwan. Come to beautiful Wulai, just an hour outside of Taipei, a world away. Sure, the sex industry can't compete with Thailand's, but surely that’s not all people travel for. I hope.